Mākia: A he maikai no laila, nui e ae aku, e ike ai uuku ... E like me la i ke aloha-keiki, ua hiki aku i ka pau ana o ka Hawaiʻi ... "Ka Pickwick Papers" e Charles

Mākou i mea e pono ai no ka piha mālama - shampoo a me ka silika. I kēia lā, e'ōlelo mākou wale nō o ka shampoo. Ke noho e e lōʻihi, aʻaʻole nui hoi manakā, akā, ma hope o ka mau o ka 'atikala oe e e hiki ke maopopo ka shampoo haku mele, aole i ka heluhelu i ka hoʻolaha slogans.

mōʻaukala kāʻei kua

I ka wā kahiko, e holoi lauoho i ka nui, a me ka pau hoʻohana i ka hua manu yolk a me ka vinega waiu hui me ka palolo. Akā, i ka loa hanohano shampoo prototype ua paha ka lehu - ka i koe iho o ka'ā huahana i paʻipaʻiʻia me ka wai, e loaa i ka pilina paʻa loa'ākilikai ka hua nui nuipa a. Ma ka hapalua like 19th kenekulia ka hanalima? Iecaianoaaiiie o paa ke kopa, hiki no mea hoʻoheheʻeʻia i nā mea momona o ka holoholona a me kaʻai kumu. Ua kaulana pa, oia no ke kopa, i i ua ana hoʻohana ole wale ma ko kakou kupunawahine, akā, i kekahi o kona mau wā. Au au ikaika kū'ē - no ka mea, o ka ke kopa ma lalo o ka aoao o ka wai ho okumu i insoluble i huiʻia (me ka paakiki paʻakai), a i waihoia ma ka lauoho, ho okumu i ke keʻokeʻo plaque, a puka liiiU o ka ili o ka ili poo (a pinepine ke kumu no ka apuepue reversible alopecia).

I kaʻumi makahiki mua o ke kenekulia 20th, mahalo i ka poe Schwarzkopf ikea ka mua kūikawā dala no ka holoi lauoho. Shampoo like mau ma laila no mākou a pau i loko o ka hookahi keʻena hoʻokolohua Schwarzkopf i ka makahiki 1933, a ua ua kahu mālama moe o na wahine laila kaila a puni ka honua. Aia mea i ka moolelo e like me i ka mea hiki ke ua kūkākūkāʻia e kekahi o nā kumumea no ka pact i hoouka Germany, a me ka Soviet Union i ka makemake e kiʻi mākou laila mea hoʻonani hana (o ka hola noho kauwa ole ana, ka mea e nō i koe ma Moscow), i ka haʻilula o ka German mana shampoos. Au e i ike pehea oiaio keia mea, akā, ma kekahi hihia, Rusia ka mua shampooʻikeʻia wale nō i loko o ka kakahiaka 60s o ka 20th kenekulia. Ua oiaʻAʻole waleʻike mau detergency hana hale i haalele (alakaila), akā, glycerin emollient. Naʻe, manaʻo huhū keia, shampoos ua ai "paakiki" (pH = 7-8), ua hiki ke hoohalike ia lakou ke ole ia, a me kaʻiʻo nō o kēia shampoo hohonu, i ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe. Ma ka makahiki 70 o ka 20th kenekulia ka poe "Procter & Gamble" Ua mua hoʻolauna i loko o ka haku mele 'ana o ka shampoos mālama konohiki (cationic eiiiiiaiou) i i pākuʻi i shampoos, a hiki i kekahi palupalu i ka lauoho hoʻoikaika kino hiki.

kēia shampoos

I ka lā, i ka shampoo mai ka regular kou niho ua liloʻaneʻane "ʻano hana", e like me ka mea ua hoakaka akahai manao ole ae hookaawale ana i ka ili, i ke alo o kekahi mālama waiwai o ka lauoho, pinepine hui me ka pākōlea a me ka prophylactic ia ma luna o kaʻili, a me kekahi manawa e hana me ke ano o ka aromatherapy, mahalo i ka maikaiʻala. I mea no ke aha la, shampoo o kekahi o ka loa mau hoʻohana mea hoʻonani huahana e kō ka kiʻekiʻe koi, o ka i loko o keia 'atikala, au e noʻonoʻo wale na detergents a me ka Skin waiwai i kūkākūkā i ka "mawaho huahana mau helehelena," i kona "kii" ma o ka hoʻolaha makeke ia mai iaʻu he hoihoi '.

Ma kēia cosmetology Akanahe ka mea, i olelo mai ua mea e like ai ke kālā no shampoo e loaa ana:

- maikaʻi, i ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe kanawai (o ka papa, keia mea kona ka papa kuhikuhi hana); ka haawi ana i kekahi mea waiwai ma ka hua ka wai o kekahi paakiki (i mea nui loa i loko o mākou nui aupuni);

- pono māhele ma o ka lauoho (i kēia mea nui, mai ka wahi o ka Hawaii o ka puka waiwai, no ka mea, o ka iwilei mea no ka "ulia");

- hoopuni holoi aku (keia mea i ka PAaIEN o "ka hoʻokōʻana", e like me ka mea uie kekahi hapanui hewahewa o kanaka i hookomo mua counters ma luna o ka wai, he okoa ka shampoo flakes ii iai uaʻaʻole paha kekahi e e hoʻonaniʻia);

- 'aʻole i mea nāuki mai i ka ili poo (incredibly maoli waiwai i loko o ka māhuahua allergenicity o kēia kanaka);

- e i ka hoʻoikaika kino keia, i ka mea oluolu i ka waihona meli (pono, keia au ua kūkākūkāʻia, no ka mea, ma koʻu manao, ua i ka hana o ka balesama);

- e haawi aku i ka lauoho ka lā'ī a me ka olakino helehelena (akā, o ka papa, o ka oi aku ina he consumer mea i manaoia he manaʻo me "maemae");

- i ka pono AEeAaOA a me ka hale kalapu no helehelena.

Nei, hoomaka ae la shampoo e hoʻohui 'ia nā pōpō kaulia ana (particles) - microspheres me ka mea hoʻonui hopena o ka pili ana Oe a confetti. Ma waho aʻeo ia hana hoihoi pilikia makapō keia, ka mea hoʻopaʻa i ka maluhia o dietary kumukanawai. Eia naʻe,ʻaʻohe mea pehea uʻi i ka shampoo ma ka nānā aku, me ka ike maopopo a me ka attractiveness o kona consumer waiwai hiki ke auhau ma hope o hoʻohana wale.

Ke kūlana o ka wai i loko o ka shampoo

I ka nui o ka wai i loko o ka shampoo ke hiki 80%, i kēia wai e e kuhikuhi microbiologically hala ole (e shampoo 'aʻole e lilo "hotbed" koʻohune). He pono i ua ole paakiki paʻakai (hao, kalipuna, makanekiuma), a ho'ēmi i ka hua nui a me ka loa pinepine like oleʻoluʻolu precipitate. E neutralize loa o kēia mau paʻakai i hoʻohuiʻia ka ai-kapaia chelates (IeAUPIIe, IAa IO ka mea, o Trilon B).

I kēia lā ia mea kaila e olelo aku i ka wai i loko o shampoos UAIAaIN ma infusions a decoctions o ka lau nahele. I au eʻoiaʻiʻo i ka mea oiaio mea hiki, mai ka lāʻau lapaʻau nā pōʻalo mea he maikaʻi papa ole wale no o ka iapaau ana o keʻano o ka dermatitis, akā, no hoi no ka ulu ana o nā'ēheu kēia'ēheu o nā meaola, i waena o i he mea ole ka "pono". A koe ... mākou nō ke wale manaoio mea a lākou e'ōlelo aku i loko o kānaka kālepa.  

Ka, i ka hoʻomaʻemaʻe waiwai

Ma muli naʻe o ia i ka nunui% wai maʻiʻo mea no ke kumu o kekahi shampoo ua he detergent waiwai. No ka mea, o ka papa hana o ka shampoo, e wehe i ka lepo, i mea - e holoi! Ke kumu detergent waiwai i surfactants ma shampoos - surfactants.

Surfactant waiwai: 1. emi i kaʻilikai hoʻopilikia ma waena o ka wai a me ka momona (particles), e pono ai i ke ana o kēia mau (particles) a me ka lepo; 2. ho okumu i hua (mua ia ka nui manaoio - i ka nui o ka hua, i ka maikaʻi o ka hoomaemae Ano keia olelo ma muli o kona kulana oiaio.); 3. No ka hana i ka wehe ana o (particles) o ka lepo i loko o ka hua a me ka pale aku i ka hou-maluhia iho la o ka lepo ma luna o ka lauoho (i kēia mea nui, i ole ia kahi o ka holoi ana mākou makemake i ke alahouana, Sisyphean hana); 4. Ke i koe, nā mea hoʻohui i stabilized shampoo a malama ia i loko o ka mea hoʻoheheʻeʻAno o; 5. E hoomahuahua i ka (viscosity) o ka shampoos; 6. haawi lauoho palupalu.

Hōʻike i detergencyʻano nui anionic surfactants, na nā lātoma o i pihaʻi me liposoluble (hydrophobic) kuleana, a me ka wai wailana (hydrophilic) kauwahi. Ma koʻana koko pāʻoihana, na nā lātoma decompose e lilo negatively kauoha Ion. Ke kaikea-wailana hapa o ka lātoma e hoopaa ana a me nā kapa o ka (particles) o ka lepo a me ka secretion o sebaceous glands. Ka wai wailana hapa o ka lātoma aʻo i kaʻoihana aku mai o ka lauoho, a hāpai i ka hopena maikaʻi 'āhewa' ana (e like me ka mea ia hoopii repel kekahi i kekahi, i ike ia), a ma ka (particles) o ka lepo, pili me surfactants, lauoho hoomalau, laila ia ka pono i loko o ka wai, a ua wehe 'ia me ia. Mau eiiiiiaiou ka mea, i ole infrequently haawiia i like detergents a me surfactants. Saponifier detergents mea o maoli me Kinohi, surfactants - kemikala huahana. Pinepine ia mau detergents i loko o ka shampoo: paʻakai laureth sulufahate (ka hapanui mau hoʻohana 'ia), paʻakai o ka alakaila Etera sulfates (paʻakai lauryl makanekiuma, emi'amoniuma), laureth makanekiuma sulufahate (softer akā, pipiʻi) saktisulfosuktsinaty (pahee surfactants ka nānā' ana ma luna o succinicʻakika) acyl peptides (ka condensation huahana o ka kumuʻiʻo hydrolyzate a me kaʻaila niu a).

Ua Ua hoi loa hoʻomano hoʻohana cationic surfactants. Ka mea, i kekahi 'ano mehana detergent kanawai, akā, ka mea e pono ",ʻo" a negatively kauoha lauoho, a hana fixation o dietary kumukanawai a ma luna o ka lauoho: cationic polymers, quaternized kumuʻiʻo hydrolysates, kanu polysaccharides.

Amphoteric surfactants - ma ka hui pu ana, me ka anionic surfactants hoomahuahua i ka harmlessness o shampoo mea haʻilula keimikala, a ma ka hui pu ana, me ka cationic ka hōʻoi 'o ka maikaʻi' ole o ka silicones a me ka mea hoʻonui ka Skin ma ka lauoho a me ka ili poo: alkilamidopropil betaines cocoamphoacetate.

Kala, e kamailio e pili ana i ka surfactant hiki ia he lōʻihi loa manawa (ma ka mea nui i oi ole-ionic, kriptoaninovye surfactants a hiki SOPA, a he hoʻonui ia e pili ana i ka loa 'O ke kaulike nā papakuhikuhi), akā, ke manaoio nei au i keia hiki e ana, like laila, hoʻomaka nō luna' Nine Inch no mākou subtleties.

aesthetic mea hoʻonui

Opacifiers: ke hoʻololi i ka makakiʻi heterogeneity o ka huina hoonui a me kona i ka nani kala like 'ole, a e leie kokoke ole loli ma ka hoʻomanaʻo, e hoʻoikaika' kona consumer waiwai. Ma hope o hou opacifiers, shampoo lilo hou e like me ka lotion a jelly, ma mua oʻike mau detergents (hale type). Chemically opacifiers i koʻana koko pīlali lakou hoopuehu.

Make: hoʻolauna e makakiʻi hua'ōlelo i makemake malu. pono e ka mea, ola no nā mea kūʻai mai, photostable a me ka mai ole decompose i me ka dukima loa (paio hahana maoli nō, ke kūpaleʻana, etc.). Ma ka hapanui o'āina hooponopono i ka waiwai o ka make. A oaeii, loaʻa nō kekahi mau hoʻokonukonu nenoai - ka US, Europa a me Japanese. Lūkini Manufacturers hoopili i Europa hooponopono make. A i loko o mau - ka theme like sooo i kekahi mea, aʻano manakā, keia - na mea a pau.

Ala: heʻokoʻa ka mea i ka mea, ua "hoʻonaniʻia" ka huina hoonui, e ka mea hale kalapu no ka mea kūʻai mai, meaʻala, a me ke ala o ka maka E hūnā i nā. Nolaila, - kou manaʻo e pili ana ia. Inā keʻala i oi aku ka ikaika ma laila, 'aʻole i manaʻo ua i ka maka i nā mea i ole kiʻekiʻe loa kbps ... ala e e hana maʻalahi me nā shampoo fillers, aʻaʻole i ka'opi ma manawa (ka mea, ua manaoio aku no lakou i ka mea e e mālama i ka liʻiliʻi 3 mahina). Noaia haawi ana i ala shampoo ka loa paʻakikī a me Eia naʻe, pu me preservatives a me colorants hiki ia kekahi kumu nui o ka allergic reactions i ka shampoo. Aia He He hoʻomaopopo like 'Eulopa kauoha, i Ho'ākāka' 26 nui allergens, i hiki ke komo i loko o ka meaʻala, akā, no ka maluhia kumu e e koi 'ia e hōʻike i ka i' ae ', o ka oi aku ina lākou helu aku i ka palena.

ooieoeiiaeuiuo mea hoʻonui

Preservatives: mau waiwai i i pākuʻi i nā mea hoʻonani, e hooki aku i ka ulu ana o paha pepehi microorganisms, mai nā mea hoʻonani lakou he maikaʻi 'ia ai ka ulu a me nā'ōlelo o microorganisms. He mea nui loa, no ka mea, microorganisms ka mea,ʻaʻole degrade wale i ka pono o ka huina hoonui, akā, i paka toxins (hoomake iho no hoi o maoli me Kinohi), i mea e hiki hoʻonāukiuki aku i ka ulu ana o ka hoʻoʻino a me ka allergic reactions. No ia mea, mai ka microbiological maemae pili kēia hilinaʻi ole wale ma luna o ka consumer waiwai o ka huina hoonui, akā, i kona ka hoʻokōʻana a, au makemake e olelo aku nei - maluhia. Koho o ka preservative i pākahi no kēlā me kēia'ikamu. O ka nani paakiki hana, no ka mea, Ua pono, e lawe i ka mooolelo: hopenaʻoi loa aku i ka palahalaha pae o microorganisms; preservative hoʻokaulike me na nā mea hoʻohui a pau o ka shampoo; haahaa kaʻawahia; wela kumupaʻa; kumupaʻa i loko o ke akea pH huahelu.

XIX. Preservatives hoʻohana: benzoicʻakika nā mea loaʻa, likeʻole parabens, metilhloroizotiazolinon a me ka methylisothiazolinone, imidazolidinyl urea, propylene glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben a me ka mea e like.

Thickeners ((viscosity) regulators) e pākuʻi i shampoos, e haawi aku i ka makemake hana mau. Kupono thickeners i loa mau hoʻohana mea kūkulu polymers i polyvinylpyrrolidone a me copolymers o acrylates. No hoi thickeners hana hiki i ke kūlana o ka glyceryl nā mea kemika o momoma nāʻakika a me polysaccharides o ke kanu kumu.

Solubilizing konohiki: ka kūikawā konohiki e hoomahuahua i ka solubility o poorly wailana nā mea hoʻohui. kela ethoxylated huahana i hoʻohana loa pinepine. pinepine Solubilizers hoʻohana 'ia e solubilizeʻala a pau loa. Kekahi kumukanawai mua pōkole i loko o ka shampoo kekahi mea hoʻoheheʻe i loko o nā solubilizers (e laʻa me, jojoba aila, palaoa germ aila, momona-wailana nā wikamina).

PH regulators: no ka hooponopono hou, no laila, kama'āina iā mākou hydrogen inideka, hui aku pahee nāʻakika (citric, lactic, phosphoric) ole mekala 'åkilikai (paʻakai hydroxide, mono- ole triethanolamine). I ka pH o ka shampoo mea incredibly nui, no ka mea pono e like me ka hōʻoia i ka laulā o nā mea a pau eiiiiiaiou komo i loko o kona haku mele 'ana. Nui, ka mea, ua manaoio aku no lakou ia mea, o ka pH e hoʻoholo i ka degere o ka ili ae hookaawale ia ka hoʻohana 'ana shampoo. Akā, dermatologists manaʻo keia koi ana ka loa controversial, i na kanaka noiʻi Ua kuapo i kaʻili i ka maikai aooa waiwai (i ka hiki i ka 'ano paakiki e kū fluctuations ma ka pH Hawaiʻi, oa e stabilize i ka pH). Ka mea wale nō mea e hiki ke alakai i ka mea hoʻonāwaliwali maoli nō o ka buffering'ōnaehana - ino shampoo holoi aku, mai ka lauoho a me kaʻili, akā, laila, i ka stimulation e i e hana ole wale, aʻaʻole nui ka pH regulators.

hoʻoikaika kino mea hoʻonui

Manaoia no: wehe kūpaʻa uila (ka lā hoʻokahi au i halawai i ka makahiki - "Hair ka ho'ēmiʻana razletaemosti"); smoothing poino wahi o ka cuticle (porosity smoothing); e pono ai noho nanea oe o lenalena ka lauoho (nā pulu a me ka maloo); e haawi ana i ka lauoho a me ka alohi silkiness; ka hoʻolako 'thermal hoomalu; hydration a me kino o ka lauoho; mahuahua ma ka lauoho buke.

Keʻano papa hana o ka hana o ka lewa conditioners: kanawai maoli ia lŘlŘ banal Mākēneki "+" kaki nā lātoma conditioners i "-" kauoha lauoho ili honua. Eia naʻe, ma ka hou ana i ka Mākēneki, ma keia hihia, he mea hou lewa meaʻano kaulaʻi, a me ka paa lātoma me ka keratin o ka lauoho. Keia waiwai ua kapaia - substantivity, i ke aloha i kona ea conditioners i paa wale ma luna o ka ili o ka lauoho, akā, i hoopaa i ka pono hope. Ua Ua manaoio aku i ka poino haʻawina o ka lauoho i ka nui io kauoha, a, no laila, ka mea i kākau oi ma mua o "+" i hoopiiia (cationic) o na (particles), i ka mea - i ka mea hoʻonani hopena ua hoʻokāʻoi '. I mea, keia mea i na momoku ahi hoʻonohoʻia me ka "akamai mālama '.

Mawaena o ka nui pono o ka lewa meaʻano kaulaʻi, ka mea, o ka Naauao ke hiki, e haawi aku i kou lauoho i incredibly nani a me ka kiʻekiʻe gloss. He ua loaʻa i loko i ka lewa hoʻoikaika kino "nui aʻe ana i" ka lauoho cuticle, ana i ka ili honua oi ala apuupuu (huahelu lauoho loli aʻe nui noʻonoʻo), ma laila 'ō, waihoʻoluʻu pinepine' a me ka kūlohelohe gloss.

Aia nō,ʻaʻole naʻe,ʻaʻole i ka loa maikaʻiʻaoʻao hopena o kēia mau mea kupaianaha cationic conditioners. Loa pinepine shampoos (oi loa aku hoi no ka loa a me ka poino maloo lauoho) ka loa kaumaha lauoho, hemo nui ka leo. Ma keia, e hana i kekahi shampoo, i ka 'ike loea pono e like me ke koena pono ma waena o ka hoʻomaʻemaʻeʻana a me ka hoʻoikaika kino nā mea hoʻohui. He mea nui no ka mea, he excessive ulu i loko o ka hoʻoikaika kino mea hoʻonui nui impairs ka rinsability a me ka hoomaemae shampoo. Loa nui o ke koho ana o ka lewa meaʻano kaulaʻi. No ka laʻana, ka loa ikaika pono a me ka ea hoʻoikaika kino o ka mea pīlali aila, i mea nui nui accumulates ma luna o ka lauoho (ma ka hoomanao ana o keia mea hiki ole tenacious i loko o ka manaʻo a me ka Memories o ko mākou nā mea mālama mai). Nolaila, kēia 'Oihana makemake e hoʻohana malamalama (e yiaeaiiacaaeneiie) silicones.

He nui ke hoomanao i ole mea i ikaika a me ka regenerating uaʻaʻohe shampoo, hoʻoikaika kino i ke alo o ka mea hoʻonui 'aʻole e hookaawale ia i ka pono e hoʻohana i ka balesama. He mea nui oi loa aku hoi no ka poino, a me ka Hekikai curly lauoho, e like me ka lōʻihi lauoho malu welau. E hoomanao i ka mea poino wahi komo he nui ili me ka io ka uku ole, a me ka hana ana o ka cationic ke keʻena mea wale,ʻaʻole lawa.

Silicones: e haawi mai i ka lauoho palupalu, alohi mai a me ka silkiness, emi kūpaʻa kauoha, kōkua lenalena pulu a me ka maloo lauoho, ae ho'āʻo ana ā 'inoʻino kekahi ia (eia kekahi mea, emi ka stickiness ana o ke dala no ka masonry). Silicones i ka hiki e glue i ka cuticle ma ka hana ka ho'ēmiʻana kuleana pili i. Eia hou, ka mea e ho okumu i ka manaʻoe kūkulu ma luna o ka ili o ka lauoho, hoʻomalu lauoho mai ka aggression o ka hoʻolilo 'ia a me ka thermal hoomalu waiwai.

Ano o silicones a me kā lākou hopena ma ke ano o ka lauoho: 1. dimethicone - mea pīlali mea kāhinu,. Ua i haʻi regenerating hana, ka mea hana i mea kupaianaha, a me ka noho malie alohilohi, lenalena a kapaia hiki pono e lilo Heat aiiay Auana. Hiki ke kaupaona iho i kou lauoho. 2. polioldimetikony (copolymers) - wai wailana silicones. Ua ka waiwai mālie, e puunaue i ka huina hoonui ma ka lauoho, e hoʻoikaika 'kapaia. 3. aminofunctional silicones (amodimethicone) - e komo hoʻoikaika kino a me ka hoʻopōʻaiapuni ka waiwai, hemolele hoomau i ke ano o ka make lauoho. 4. Encapsulation o silicones - i keu hoʻoikaika kino a me ka hoonui ae i lauoho kapaia; 5. dimethicone laurate succinoglycan - koʻana koko mea pīlali emmulsiya vysokomolekulchrnogo - paʻa regenerative a me regenerative hookoia, haawi i ka silky, glues Wāwahi lauoho welau.

Eia he wahine - ABC malama.